Showing posts with label meat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label meat. Show all posts

Friday, 28 January 2011

Band Wagons.

The trouble with them is every bugger gets on, leaving little room for individual personality. Like fashion..........

And Trends.

BIG Hospitality ran a feature recently where highly admired Chefs gave their predictions as to what will be gastronomically En Vogue in 2011, which will no doubt have others searching amidst their area for supplies and recipes to keep them 'hip' and happening.

Certain Things I get, and fully follow. Like utilising locally produced, reared and grown produce. Obviously the recent sustainability surge with regards to fish (and other produce). But these aren't trends, they are Revolutions spurred on through the gaining of knowledge and the attainment of Ethics.

When the call for buying local erupted forth from legendary proclaimed chefs shouting from the rooftops of their Restaurants and Hotels I stuck my thumb out and hitched that lift. However, after time I realised that although Local is a very important part of our current Ethos, the one thing we were seriously overlooking was the quality aspect.

As a Chef, I take pride in utilising the best ingredients I can get and that means not all that comes from within a given radius of supply will necessarily meet my needs. For example, The weather and soil further up the Isle, I.E. Norfolk, may aid the production of a better quality Carrot as opposed to the Somerset Levels. The grazing land may be better in Yorkshire nurturing better Milk, as opposed to the wilds of Cornwall.

And it's not just product for product. It is also product within product. Consider the Potato. With approximately 4000 varieties grown throughout the world and around 80 farmed in the United Kingdom, there is plenty to choose from. Chefs have their favourites depending on what task the humble spud is for and a lot of the attraction will be due to the quality of local crop.  

I do still buy locally, don't misunderstand. I get these amazing Jerusalem Artichokes, and Shallots from just down the road albeit from a very annoying (overly passionate) grower. I get my Fish from two 'as local as land-locked Somerset can be' suppliers. and all my meat is raised within the Borders of Somerset, Dorset, Devon & Wiltshire. I get very ratty & pissed off if ever I have found out a supplier has bought any produce that has travelled more air miles than I have because it was a good deal and have not told me before purchase. I would rather pay more, charge more and enable myself to sleep safe in the knowledge that Britain is growing and rearing fine foods for me and my Diners.

The main hub of this post is to heavily endorse and promote a fantastic Local (yet not....sort of) product that I am very fortunate to be allowed to utilise.

At the bottom of the Village, there is a hidden farm reached via a 'Southfork' style track with white fences adorning the sides and wide open level fields of grass beyond. Occasionally you catch a glimpse of Bovine herds in the distance roaming free, grazing and lazing under mighty Oak trees. Eventually you  arrive into the large and clean complex typical of any aged Farm in the UK. There are signs pointing the directions that one may need to take including the Butchers shop. 

The Farm is called Lower Oakley Farm and as afore mentioned, looks similar to other Beef Farms yet there is one slight difference..............

They are not Cows.

The placid Beasts that roam this idyllic Somerset countryside are Water Buffalo.

Similar in appearance to your average breed of Cows there is only three features that make them notably different in species. They are all a rich chocolate brown in colour, their 'Blade' (the ridge after the neck) is highly defined, and they have magnificently carved and curved Horns.

These mighty animals are just as inquisitive as Cows tend to be and often wander over to the fences for a nuzzle and a sniff which is when you notice their deep, searching eyes, often shaded beneath toupees of hair.

The farm started out with a Herd of 22 which were imported from Romania, and to date they have increased to a steady 200 strong. Their diet consists of grass for most of the year and then during the freezing Winter months they are fed natural Winter Forage which the Farmer grows on his own land. At no point do the Buffalo eat any form of added concentrates, ensuring that they maintain a traceable Organic lineage.

When the animal has been killed, it is then matured for 21 days on site before the Barry expertly Butchers the meat into various cuts to sell at Farmers markets and within their own shop. As this is a small concern, the produce is only for public retail, and there are no plans to breed enough for Catering outlets. However! I am lucky enough to have gained the good grace and blessing of both Tony the Farmer and Barry the Butcher to feature their wonderful meat within my place of work. 

On my Classic Pub Menu I have created a mouthwatering and flavoursome Buffalo Burger, using high quality Mince, and seasoned with blended Onions, Cracked Pepper & Sea Salt. We also sell their topside, Roasted on Sundays as opposed to the usual Beef. And I have just created a new Pie of Slow cooked Diced Buffalo, Somerset Cider, & Caramelised Shallots with a delicate Blue Cheese Pastry.

All three dishes come highly praised and we would probably sell even more (especially the pie) but, just as the Farmer insists on keeping a small, sustainable herd, I too keep an eye on the amount that I require to enable us to maintain an equilibrium in supply and demand. 

That should not stop you from trying this fabulous meat though and urge you to find some and try it. It has approximately 40% less Cholesterol & 70% less Fat than normal Beef, rich in Iron and other vital Minerals, has a slightly more open Texture, a terrific fresh flavour that melts over your palate, and is a very tender and pure meat.


Coming next....Recipe for Buffalo! 


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Wednesday, 26 January 2011

This little Piggy........

"Everything in a Pig is good. What ingratitude has permitted his name to become a term of opprobrium?""
Grimod De La Reyniere

I love meats. They are a beautiful medium to use in the kitchen that often gets showcased as the best meal on the menu, be it in a pie, as a chop or cutlet, roasting joint, steak, burger, casserole or sandwich filler. People are willing to pay phenomenal prices for certain cuts of meat from specific animals because they know how good it will taste.

When I purchase my meat, I insist on knowing where the animal has come from, which means I often visit the Producer along with my trusted and valued Butcher to ensure that I feel comfortable with the way they are reared. This includes the way they are kept, their feed, their space to roam, their shelter and how much the farmer actually cares for them. There is one small holder I know that plays music to his Sheep & Lamb daily, and another that believes in massage for his herd, amazing!

One of my suppliers is a fab Rare Breeds Piggery  in Dorset where the pigs have acres of space to roam, are fed on nothing but good food, are probably the friendliest ones I have ever met. Their shape is perfect, not over fed and fattened, but not too lean. I often select a Pig from time to time and when ready, it is killed and butchered to the specifications I need at the time, with nothing left to waste (I often train my staff on old school things like Brawn, faggots etc.) My favourite two finish products I enjoy creating are Pork Belly, and Hams.

Hams can be plain, which lets the Meat do all the talking with it's unadulterated freshness and unique taste, but  I enjoy the steeping and cooking with flavours to end up with a truly flavoursome product. This is a curing recipe I have tweaked from an old Farmhouse cookbook which was originally from Oxfordshire area. It is best to cure Hams during late Autumn or Early spring where the air conditions are better for the process.

Beer & Juniper Cure for Air Dried Hams


Ingredients for 8kg Boneless Pork leg:


470g Soft Brown Sugar
250g Rough Sea salt
3 pints of Beer (This is an important factor of the process, as this determines a large portion of the outcome in flavour. Too malty and the product may become bitter, too Hoppy and the Ham may carry a lingering floral note. Taste the ales first, and then decide on the one for you).
235g Juniper Berries
87g Celery powder or salt

Note: The original recipe called for Saltpetre which is the product that created the Nitrates required to cure the meat as well as give it the lovely pink colour that is associated with Hams. These days, Saltpetre is only utilised in some Butchers as a means to keep their Sausages Pink and if they cure their own hams. I have changed the recipe to omit this form of salt by upping the natural Sea salts (which have a good volume of the required Nitrates), and added Celery powder or salt. Powdered Celery is a good natural alternative to Saltpetre. Otherwise, if you have a good specialist food supplier, you could use Pink salt instead.

Method:
Put all the ingredients into a pan and boil for 10 minutes.
Allow to get cold.
Place the Ham into a 5 litre tub and cover with the liquid. Cover and leave in a cold place (ideally in a chill room, or anywhere that the temperature is anywhere between +5 to +10 degrees C
Lift and turn the Ham in the tub, massaging the meat briefly every 3 days over a period of 12 days.
Remove from the Pickle, rinse off brine, double wrap in muslin and hang until dry in an airy, cool and dry place (5-9 months is best, but is ready after 6-8 weeks)