Back once again

Guess who's back,
back again?

Me. 

I'm back.

 JP (AKA somersetchef), not that I have really been anywhere.

 But back I am.

The last couple of years have proven to be a really tough portion of my life, what with the workload gaining massively, the introduction of CandyShack Mill, family life and a general feeling of too low in energy at the end of the long days to interact via Blog, and no time to Tweet during the working day. I had, to be honest, taken on too much. 

Health may have also been a factor, with poor diet, smoking and drinking (often) taking its toll on the system, adding to the lathargic state I had become encased in. 

The work had taken its pound of flesh too. After becoming Freelance, I accepted every job available, not wishing to let anyone down. I found myself juggling dates with Family life and the new Business, unable to please either often. Then I became set in one of the venues I was working at. Issue after issue was arising, and I felt by giving more of my time was the fair thing to do until stability reigned. Two and a half years later, on a low wage for a Freelancer and working from morning to late night non stop, Stability may just be around the corner and my services will at last be a non requirement.

It has been one of the most hard to work in, most frustrating places I have had to endure. And although I have enjoyed the challenges that in itself throws up, I find that one vital element is sorely lacking in what I am doing.

I am support, not the Head Chef. I support the constant requirements of the Owners, the newly appointed staff members (of which there has been numerous) and most importantly, the Head Chef (of which there has been a few). My title had been likened to that of a Supplier and Consultant. This in itself makes me yearn to do what I am good at, to do what comes naturally, and to do what made me become somersetchef - Prolific Tweeter and Blogger.

Head up my own Kitchen.

Recently, I was approched by someone I had never met nor spoken to, who introduced me to an opportunity and Head Chef Position that was being advertised by a Landlord of a Dorset Public House He frequented.

After a series of e-mails, we had arranged a meeting with the Landlord, a casual chat/interview to find out about each other, the business, and the position.

To say the meeting ended on a positive would do it an injustice.

After spending so much time ensconced in the trenches of five-six, fifteen hour days, I suddenly found myself in a new setting more akin to where I love to be, and realise that rather than aiding others in a role created to suit the unique business management, I would be far happier facing the challenges of a kitchen at its helm. I had become so knitted into the fabric of where I was that I neglected to realise I had allowed myself to become a mentor, confidant and Kitchen Morale Mascot, serving up other people's food and creating mine there under someone elses name (some of the dishes I created were certainly some of the best I ever did). And I'm not being ungrateful, nor big headed. I got the opportunity to work with and for some amazing people who have certainly taught me new skills and techniques, but I miss everything that comes with being in sole charge of a kitchen, it's brigade and business elements.

I recieved an official offer of the Head Chef position, and have since handed in my notice at the other Business. There is a long notice period that I have to see through, but I am already ingraining myself with my future 'Home' weekly, preparing plans, menus, special dishes and looking at strengthening the team within the Kitchen. 

And suddenly I am back. Tweeting much more often, getting excited about my style of food, and Blogging. Look! I am actually Blogging again!

There are so many careers out there that can suck you in and make you lose yourself snd your way, no doubt. But I can only speak with confidance about this humble trade we call Hospitality and Catering.

To anyone, who is deep within the trenches without sunlight and a change of scene. STOP.
Just for a small while. Go somewhere. Look around you. And make sure you can feel that Sunlight warm your face.

Blackberry Jam, Unleashed...

In a County that thrives on foraging and Game meats, it is not that hard to raid Mother Natures Larder when she is not looking. The Important thing however is to do the plunder justice.

I have been creating a recipe for a dish using Venison and Guinea Fowl, and wanted a real powerful fruity sauce that smacked of hedgerows and open fields.
Blackberries are one of the most abundant berries in the United Kingdom and makes for an excellent Crumble, Pie and even Jam.

I have ended up creating this rather sexy little number that is truly stunning with plenty of natural characteristics and balances of flavours. This will be the base of my sauce for the Game and Poultry dish....Providing I don't steal it for my toast!

Makes enough for 1x1kg Kilner Jar

1KG fresh Blackberries, the plumper the better, washed and drained.

450g Preserve Sugar

50g Soft Brown Sugar

1 Sprig Rosemary, leaves squeezed

4 Juniper Berries

1 Star Anise

Pinch of Pink Peppercorns

6 Cloves

Grated zest of 1 Grapefruit

Juice of ½ Grapefruit

6 fl ozs pure apple juice (or one fresh eater, grated)

100ml Ruby Port

1x1Kilo Kilner Jar or several smaller Jam Jars, sterilised and fully dried (best way to dry in oven on low heat).

Disc of grease proof.

The Rosemary & Star Anise adds a whole new level of flavour to a classic Jam

Method:

• Place the Blackberries and the sugar into either a Jam Pan or a solid base Saucepan. Give a good stir through, taking care not to damage the Blackberries too much.
• Leave for roughly 30-40 minutes to allow the sugar to dissolve in the natural juice.
• Place a small plate in your Fridge to chill down.
• Place the Juniper, Star Anise, Peppercorns and Cloves Into a small Muslin square, Gather up all the corners, and tie up with a long length of Butchers string and tether the spice bag to the pan handle, ensuring the spices can submerge in the mix.
• Add the Rosemary, Grapefruit Zest & Apple/Apple juice and place the pan on a low heat, stir and allow to come up to a bubbling heat.
• Add the squeezed Grapefruit juice and the Port, give a stir and allow to boil for 5-8 minutes.
• Using the chilled plate, spoon a small amount of the jam onto it to check the consistency of the Jam when set. Allow to cool for a few minutes. If the Jam sample sets to your liking, remove from Pan from heat and allow to cool down slightly. If, however the Jam is not thick enough, place back onto the stove and cook out for another 5-10 minutes. Repeat the above until your perfect Jam is ready.
• Remove the Rosemary & Spice pouch, and then pour the Jam into a sealable glass jar.
• Place the Paper disc onto the Jam, Secure the Lid and store until required.

Any good quality Apple Juice will work, but will change the background sweetness
and balance, so taste, taste, taste!

The Only Way Is Eating

Saturday 14th January, 2012


6:10pm

Food is such a huge draw to some people, especially when it is crafted by widely known and regarded professional Chefs with stars and rossettes in tow.
People are willing to travel the length and breadth of this fair Country in order to share the experience of some truely memorable food.

So, I therefore beg the question:

Why would I, a professional Chef with a fair reputation for good food, travel for three hours in the cold of Winter to dine at someones home who is not a professional and does not even work within the industry?

Simple.

Passion.

I have been chatting to Mr. B (name with held to protect his current career) for a while now and his passion for food, cooking, and the dream of owning his own Bistro is, to say the least, endearing and infectious.

I know of people within the trade with far less food knowledge and passion, so when invited to road test his capabilities and critique his work, I couldn't say no.

And here I am in an undisclosed location in England typing up my introduction, whilst sat in a freezing Ford KA waiting for an acceptable time to announce my arrival at his door. (I am always very early for appointments, never, ever late)

And I am desperado for the lavatory.......

11:48pm

I am now sat back in the even colder KA about to leave, but need to make note of my initial summary.

The whole enjoyable, easy going and relaxed evening was amazing for the wrong reasons.

Now, that may seem harsh, but allow me to expand and tell you why. The meal was certainly the reason why the gathering was set in place, as the main focus of the evening was to acertain as to whether the Gentleman in question had the skills and ability to advance to a level of Chef/proprietor of his own, self funded Bistro.

However, the biggest resonance that the evening left was an overall warm feeling from meeting new people, sharing a table with them and enjoying an evening of good conversation, witty reparte, and exploration of individuals getting to know and understand each other. Be it over the top, but I left the home feeling not so much a guest, but rather that I had just gained some new close friends.

I know that some of you reading this may be suggesting that this is a good sign of a well balanced Dinner Party, and that the food should be there to give an enhancement to an enjoyable evening, and you are right. That is exactly the point behind good food. But this evening, as already mentioned, was designed to help our Host decide whether the pipe dream should stay just that.

And the answer to that, although not quite as succinct as I am just about to put it, is Yes.
And No......

Sunday 15th January, 2012


7:25pm

Arriving at home at 4:15 this morning, I decided to sensibly gain some sleep before going ahead and writing the rest of my piece on last night's soiray in order to give it my full focus and attention. And what better inspirational place than within my place of work, surrounded by people and enjoying each others company, as well as the ambience and most importantly, the food.

After finalising my introduction yesterday evening, I left the car and made my way along the quiet and unnasuming Street, climbed the aged worn Stone steps leading to my destination and knocked on the door 15 minutes earlier than the invitation indicated. Almost immediately after my rapping on the door ceased, the door was opened by whom I correctly assumed to be the Chef/Host. After a very warm, friendly welcome, I was introduced to a fellow diner, followed by Mr. B's wife. I immediately felt relaxed and at home as pleasantries were exchanged, and my Jacket for a very wonderful glass of chilled Sedlescombe Cuvee Bodiam Brut, West Sussex.

We then moved into the nice cosy front room, while Mr. B retracted himself to his kitchen to finalise tasks and, most probably, prepare himself mentally for what he was very soon embarking on.

The husband of the female Diner, whom I had already met, appeared from upstairs joined us and we started the usual getting to know you conversations, which was enjoyable, giving rise to genuine interest on all counts and general good banter.

The final guest arrived, a Scottish lady who had me genuinely bewitched with her strong personallity,  fun sense of humour, and amazing depth of knowledge and understanding about pretty much everything.

After an offer of having our glasses refilled, Mr. B steered us towards the Dining room to prepare ourselves for the start of the main reason why we were all assembled. The next wine, a vibrant red-Les Nivieres 2010, Saumur, Loire was served, and so it began, the parade of edibles that was to be sampled, ruminated, discussed, digested and regurgitated in the form of honest opinions, thoughts, reccommendations and suggestions.

Dish one was an Amuse Bouche of An Olive Tuille with local Mozzerella, and slices of Baby Plum Tomato.
Portion size was honest and correct, with the presentation kept simple to enable the diner to see the taster was almost a homage to the base ingredients, that complexity was not key to what the host wanted us to experience.

The starter course arrived of Confit Duck with Cognac, Cornichons, dipping oil and Homebaked Breads. Again, the premise seems simple enough, asking those experiencing his craft work to realise his well created series of steps taken were ultimately to experience the quality and passion involved in producing the dish as a whole.

At this stage, one diner enjoyed it to the extent that he asked for a further sampling, as to him, the flavour and texture deserved to continue. Praise for any Chef, indeed.

A brief repast, apology for a delay in the next instalment, and the main course arrived of Pork tenderloin with green chilli, lime, herbs, wrapped in Pancetta, served with Puy lentils cooked in fesh Chicken stock, with a Mustard, Creme Fraische and White Wine Reduction. Accompanied with two large bowls of mixed baby leaf salad, we all tucked in silently to start with, focusing on our reason for being at the table. To me, although all dishes are to be of a good standard, the main course has to be the pinnacle and the culmination of all the Chef's effort, attention to detail and passion. After a few mouthfuls, encompassing all that was on the plate, a steady conversation returned as we all continued to finish the sybiosis of meat and pulse.

Final course, dessert, which to others is deemed as the real course that matters, and a brave attempt to deliver a Chef school classic that has to be 100% right, the highly revered Tarte au Citron. With Lavender Meringue.

At this stage, pushing the boat out, as well as showing just how important the whole experience was for Mr. B, a beautiful Dessert Wine from Bordeaux (possibly Chateau Liot 2008, Sauternes) was charged in glasses. And it was a perfect choice to accompany the sweet/tarte final dish.

I will catagorically go on record to say that this man certainly understands the concept of correct wine pairing and would happily ask him to arrange a selection for my own personal consumption, or even for accompanying my foods served within my place of work.

The conversation then ceased briefly, as our host sucked in his breath akin to final taste of sweet air before a hanging and asked the all important question.

A mix of carefully selected turns of phrase, very honest and direct analagies and broad ranging conclusions ensued, with Mr. B sagely and nervously hanging on each word, taking every slight and well meaning critique on board like the proverbial sponge.

The general consensus was that this man could certainly show a love of food and that rather than continue with the hosting of six seater supper clubs, in order to gain the capability of realising his dream, it would be prudent to:

 spend time in real professional  kitchens

Take over a cafe for an evening

Gain the vital theoretical knowledge of ingredients, recipes and cooking methods

And just as importantly, maintain the love and passion that has thrust him this far towards our world.

As I said my fairwells to all and made my way to the front door, I managed to personally thank Mr. B for his hospitality once more, giving a few final pieces of advice for him to take onboard before stealing into the icy night, back to the confines of my frost coated KA for the journey home.


Monday, 16th January, 2012

For the very astute of you, you will have noticed that 24 hours and more have passed by before I have drawn my closing conclusion. This is for good reason. Firstly, so I could give a full report to Mr. B before drawing this post to a close.
And secondly, because it is not that easy to be fully honest, when critiquing a party in someone's home that you were invited to, for free, with the company of such lovely people and wonderfully welcoming hosts.

But, conclude I must.

So, if this was a genuine invitation from a good friend for a meal, I would have been bowled over by the effort and generosity of such a wondrous series of dishes and wine. This would be the best meal in someone's house I have had.....

........But this was a call for professional advice and honest critiquing, in return for 4 courses and wine.

If Mr. B owned the Bistro, and therefore regarded as a fellow professional, then there would have been disappointments and 'issues with the meals on offer. Would it have prevented me from paying the bill when it arrived? No. Would I make a revisit? Perhaps not. Would I recommend it to friends and family. Sadly not. In this premise the food was okay, but had the hallmarks of an amateur at work which would have real gourmands tutting and certainly turning their conversation to every microscopic issue they then could relay to others. So, if Mr. B had his Bistro now I would advise him to employ a Head Chef and let the professionals do their job.

However, the mystery Man is not handing money over for a set of keys to his dream anytime yet, and has plans to keep building on his abilities, learn all he can from those who understand the trade and industry skills, and go thoroughly through underpinning knowledge, understanding the logistics and acknowledging the vast difference between home cooking and professional fine dining before even contemplating on opening doors to a business premises.

And because of that, I know that this man, this very brave and passionate man will one day invest in a set of whites and dazzle people with his cuisine. And when he does, I will be back there, knowing that any distance will be worth it.

A Tale of Two References (Contains sweary wordage)

***WARNING***

This post contains swearing and may cause offence...Please do not read if easily offended!!!

Merci

A sad day took place last week, where we saw the longest standing member of staff leave us for pastures new.

On their last day, I was asked for a written reference so they could use it if required in the future.

I duly obliged.

......kind of.

For those unaware of kitchen banter, no stone is left unturned behind the closed swing doors that lead to the engine room of the food premises. Wit and swearing quite often fires off on all four cylinders, as 'your Mum' gags, comments on people's sexuality, sexual antics, mental abilities, and colour of hair (or lack there of)

But at this point, I should point out that the Kitchen team are a very close and tight group, always looking out for each other, covering each other's asses and possibly closer than any siblings could get. There is never any acceptance of malice nor bullying and any lines deemed by the whole team are never stepped over.

The following is a spoof Reference for the leaving team member, who upon reading it, had a look of shock when confronted with the first expletive penned sentence. The look soon made way to smiles, laughs and even tear washed cheeks as he read on to the end......

XXXXXXXXX                      Reference

December,  2011

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXk

XXXXXXXXXXXn

XXXXXXXXXt

XXXXXXX

XXXXX XXXXXX8

To whom it may Concern,

XXXX has worked within our Kitchen for 4 years, after stepping in from the Front of House, to cover the Head Chef unduly leaving without notice.

And what a fucking four years it has been.

Seems more like ten.

XXXX has a Fuck you attitude in everything he is asked to do, and meets all tasks and challenges with a deep sense of hatred for the ‘swine rat-bastards’ that keep ordering food, begrudgingly ensuring produce is completed and served to any fucker that can be arsed to come and get it. He is passionate, especially with the  lads or young ladies with plump breasts,  quick to shout at others and an admired colleague when he is actually being upbeat and amusing instead of the moody sod that scowls and mumbles when something has got right on his tits . I have come to rely heavily on him to fuck me off on a regular basis almost as if he is having one of them there lady periods.

He has a gentle touch and is more than up for a little man love, and for this, he will be greatly missed (XXXXXXXXX does not even make a close second *ginger*)

I wish him every success for the future and have no qualms in recommending him for employment within Catering and Hospitality.

....Anything to get the little Bastard away from here.

Regards

Yes, he did receive a correct and fulfilling Reference, and deservedly so. I have been informed it is now framed and on the mantelpiece for all to see......

.....Just hoping it's the right one.......

Recipe for Blinding Pickled Eggs

Yet another festive feel good cupboard filler that graces most homes up and down the country this time of year is the love it/hate it pickled egg.

I find them really enjoyable with the cold spread left over Christmas buffet, just as well as simply dropped in a bag of crisps. (I know, strange custom, but it always conjures up memories of childhood evenings in the Village club, whilst drinking fizzy Vimto and listening to Andy Ford singing and telling jokes).

The problem, as usual, these days is that there a lot of poor quality eggs out there due to not enough flavour going into the Vinegar. 

This recipe of mine changes that. The method is quick and simple where the only tedious part comes from having to wait for the little oval gems to steep adequately enough.

My Father-in-Law makes masses each year and prefers them to be shelved for at least 3 months. However, I feel that they are good to nosh from as little as two weeks after bottling.

Read on, join in and get pickling!

Latest Addition to the tray of loveliness....Pickled Eggs.

Ingredients

• 48 fresh Free range Eggs, medium. (I tend to collect mine from a couple of local farmers where I know the eggs could not get any fresher, and that the Chickens really are Free Range)
• 1 litre Malt Vinegar
• 500ml Balsamic Vinegar
• 1.5 litres White wine Vinegar
• 8 Cloves
• 1 Teaspoon Coriander Seeds
• 1 Dessertspoon Dried Pink Peppercorns
• 1 Teaspoon toasted and crushed Black Mustard Seeds
• 12 Dried Dates, Blitzed or finely chopped
• 10 sprigs of fresh Thyme
• 1 Large Onion, Diced
• 1 Garlic Clove, cut across the horizontal
• 2 Pinches Seasalt flakes
• 1 Pinch Cracked Black Pepper
• Juice of ½ Lemon
• 1 ½ dessertspoons Truffled Honey (or good quality plain Honey)
• 2 dessertspoons Muscavado Sugar
• 3 Sage Leaves
• 2 Dessertspoons Tomato Puree

Method:

• Add all the ingredients (except the Eggs) into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes, Stirring occasionally.
• Remove from heat and allow to cool right down.
• Bring a pan of Water to the boil and place the eggs in (in batches if need be). Boil for 10 minutes if Eggs are stored at room temperature, or 12 minutes if stored in the fridge.
• Empty water, flush eggs with cold water for 8-10 minutes to stop the cooking process.
• Peel and place in fridge covered until needed.
• In clean and dry Jars, add your eggs. Make sure there is room in the jar to allow the Eggs to move around.
• Strain the pickling vinegar through a sieve and retain the seeds, onion etc.
• Pour the Vinegar over the Eggs, ensuring they are fully covered. Add a touch more Malt Vinegar if required.
• Share out the Seeds etc, in amongst the Jars.
• Seal with a tight fitting lid and gently shake to disperse the seeds etc. Add a  Label with the Date they were made and store in a cool (not cold) place, ideally a cupboard.
• Two weeks later, pop open and enjoy (with your banquette spread, or your packet of Crisps...).

Eggs Factor (Poor Pun Intended)

Assuming by the time I finish this mini post (not more than twelve minutes from now) in a matter of 48 hours some one will have an accolade that may seem very insignificant to those on the outside, yet exceedingly huge to those within-(I think I may have just been able to utilise both a Mr. Kipling quote with a reference to the T.A.R.D.I.S at the same time, wow).

I am talking about the mighty Scotch Egg Challenge.

The challenge......being held at the Ship in Wandsworth?........The challenge, with the meat coated egg....No?
Where have you been?!

For those uncertain of what I am on about, here is a link to save me turning this post into an epical saga of gargantuan proportions....http://www.theship.co.uk/blog/2011/07/22/the-scotch-egg-challenge/

Go and read.....I shall wait here.....
















Go on!













Now, it may still be a tad bizarre, but let me tell you something. It is going to be huge. I mean massive.

With a panel of esteemed judges giving the proceedings a sense of seriousness, the list of highly reputable Chefs, Restaurants, Artisans et al (and moi), and the buzz on twitter from those attending to spectate and sample alone, this competition that started from simple and humble beginnings has been turned into a competition that has received media interest, and continual comment and support on social sites.

I am in there too. Even getting grief from Pipe Dream UK that his has the 'jump' on mine, and something about a trophy cabinet (I remember an athlete named Ben Johnson who had one of those....and a fine collection of dust he had too!) I am well excited, not nervous, not smug, nor overly confident. I do, however, have faith in my Scotch Egg, and know that it can compete with, what must be undoubtedly the finest ScEggs in all the shires and lands. It will be all down to the Judge's take on what they see, smell, taste, feel when sinking those honed teeth into them (37 last count I believe!).

But, lest we forget, the main hub behind what the event is really all about is the chance to meet up, connect, network, build and forge professional & personal relationships and have a damned good time in the process. This idea of an event is what will make the industry stronger. Chefs, proprietors, guests, bosses, foodies, jouro's and others coming together and supporting each other, sharing good practices and ideas, and a little bit of Kitchen Banter.

So, If you aren't already, get your ass on over there (Tuesday 20th) for around 7pm, and bed yourself in for the evening of foodie fun and the only Eggs Factor worth watching!

Damn, overdone the writing time by 8 minutes, if this was my egg it would be F.U.B.A.R by now.


P.S. Comment below and wish me luck!

Recipe for Ham Hock, Goose & Haggis Terrine

Christmas is well and truly here People!

Well, for us Chefs it certainly is.

It seems that amid this double dip (OOOer) recession our great Country is going through, the British Public are refusing to bow towards defeat, seem intent on staying calm and carrying on with a stiff upper lip.

We have been asked for Christmas menus and the like since late May/early June, and it appears other places around the Country have had similar experiences.

This is great news for us all who always look at least six months ahead, as it gives us an early indicator as to what to expect.

I always tend to get my Menu(s) for the Festive period written by the beginning of August to entice the Thousands of folk who come to us during the high Summer Month. This year, unfortunately, due to the sheer volume of custom and extra functions throughout the Holidays they have only just been set to print.

I am very pleased with the result this year, with a great selection of seasonally inspired foods playing the part of Christmas merriment in Gastro-form.

The first recipe from the menu is a homage to a beautiful old fashioned farmhouse staple; Ham Hock Terrine.

It's simplicity (although time consuming) and not only used the 'poorer' meat from the humble pig, but also conjured up Christmas and Summer and Spring.......and early Autumn when eaten.

I have decided to inject a little extra with the use of Haggis and, the becoming more popular, Goose.

Ingredients:

4Ham Hocks

2 medium onions, Rough chopped

6 sprigs of Thyme

8 Black Pepper Corns

350ml Dry Cider

¼ Bunch Flat Leaf Parsley, Chopped

100g Capers (surphine work best)

1kg Goose Thighs

1 Bulb Garlic, Sliced Horizontally

2 Sprigs Rosemary

Cracked Black Pepper

2 level tablespoons Sea salt flakes

1.2kg Goosefat

500g Haggis

8 Gelatine Leaves

Method:

• Place the Hocks, Onion, Thyme, Pepper Corns and Cider into a good sized saucepan.
• Cover the ingredients with cold water and bring to the boil.
• Skim away the detritus and reduce the temperature to the lowest setting. Simmer for approximately 3 hours or until the Ham is beautifully tender.
• During this time, Place the Goose Thighs in a roasting tin along with the garlic, Rosemary and Pepper and Salt.
• In a Pan, slowly melt the Fat. Pour over the Thighs, ensuring they are fully covered.
• Place tin on the stove top on the lowest heat and allow the fat to rise to a temperature of 87.7°C/190°F.
• Lay a sheet of greaseproof on top.
• Place on the middle shelf of a pre-heated oven (140°C/275°F/GM 1) and cook for 2 ½  hours.
• Remove both from heat when completed and allow to cool down.
• For the Goose, remove from tin and place in clean container. Pour over enough of the fat to fully cover the meat. Place in the fridge for 24 hours.
• Remove the hocks from the pan, and retain 500ml of the liquid. Discard the rest.
• Strip the Hocks down, removing all fat, bone and any gristle (the meat needs to end up being thin, small shredded strips).
• Combine the stripped meat with the Parsley and the Capers. Place in a container for 24 hours
• After the 24 Hour Period, remove the Confit Goose Legs from the fat and strip down to pieces the same size as the Ham.
• Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes to soften.
• Place the Goose meat into 2 cling film lined 1ltr terrine tins, pressing down firmly until tightly packed.
• Next, shape the Haggis into a Sausage shape, long enough to go the full length of the mould, and about 2 inches in diameter. Place on top of the Goose, centrally.
• Build the Hock meat around and on top of the Haggis, pressing into place, leaving a ½ inch gap at the top of the tin.
• Strain the retained Ham stock in to a pan, and warm through on a low heat.
• Squeeze out the water from the gelatine, and dissolve in the Hock Stock. Mix thoroughly.
• Slowly pour onto the Terrine, allowing the liquid to disperse amongst the meat. Once the Liquid stops soaking in and covers the Ham by ¼ inch, leave to cool.
• Cling film the top and place in the fridge for 2 hours.
• Cut out a piece of thick card that fits the top of the tin, lay on top and weigh down with tins or anything weighty and hygienic.
• Place in fridge over night.
• Remove weights and card, and turn out onto plastic tray.

Ideally the Terrine should then be refrigerated for 7-10 days before using, but can be sliced sooner.

Perfect with a simple salad, and some cracking Piccalilli.

Enjoy.

J.P. De Ronne and the Mystical Egg of Fate

 Fate is a bizarre old fish.

Some people place their whole life choices and paths inside its invisible hands. They toast their successes and place their misfortunes squarely on its infinitely broad shoulders.

Others refutably deny its existence alongside its cousins; Luck, Blind Faith and Hope. To those, the only person to congratulate or blame is the self.

Whatever the reality, I now have a new path to follow that has opened up due to certain actions having taken place.

A few weeks back, I received a batch of ‘exotic’ meats to play with in the kitchen on the Hill that got my culinary brain juices leaking and my hands turning the varying ingredients into quite a large, complex series of tasks, which has been briefly mentioned before on a previous post.

One such idea that burst into life was a take on the humble Scotch Egg. The premise was a simple one but with a series of ingredients that would hopefully give our diners a unique tasting experience without compromising the basic grounding or origin of the legendary bar snack.

The finished result was perfectly formed, and full of flavour and snapped up quicker than I could have imagined and began to tell about it on the social sites in conversation. At this point I was introduced to an event that was coming up at a Pub in Wandsworth where Public Houses, Restaurants, Individuals and even shops would be taking part in.

 Looking into it further, I realised that the date was one which I could not attend due to work loads and family commitments so I abandoned all thoughts towards competing with my newest addition to my repertoire.

However, closer to the date, whilst wishing all competitors the best of luck, I saw a tweet from the Host Public House postponing the event due to the terrible riots that were unfolding within London.

Once again, I placed the Scotch Egg Challenge to the back of my mind, focusing on the day to day running of my Kitchen which was feeding an average of two hundred diners each day, as well as the weddings every Saturday, additional functions and barbecue events throughout the weeks.

Finally, after  working for 16 full days in a row and spending the spare time I did have trying to fix the broken car with a friend, I managed to slow up a little and reinstate myself in the immersive world of Twitter to catch up with other people within my follow line. It was during this time that a message about the #scotcheggchallenge (as it is being bandied about) got re-tweeted into my timeline giving the new date of Tuesday, 20^th September.

Now, fate or no fate, I decided to check the family Calander that is hung in the Kitchen to check to see what would be happening on that specific day in the De Ronne household, as there is always  a club or party or get together or work related ‘thing’ occurring each day of the year it seems.

Empty.

I double checked the new Challenge date, holding the mobile phone alongside the Family organiser to ensure both details matched. And, to my pleasant surprise, they did. The day was unusually free of any tasks.

Not even a bill due to be paid that day.

And the rest, so far is History.

I have queried the proprietors of The Ship in Wandsworth with regards to eligibility, sent details and have now been officially accepted into the Challenge.

Which is getting really big.... frequently written about.....renamed by some as the World Championships.......and seemingly quite an important event in Britain’s Catering Calendar.

It may be just because of a series of random events, mixed with being in the right place at the right time. It may be this fate thing that many believe in, but both I and my special balls are going to challenge some true Scotch Egg Masters and Connoisseurs next month and I will enjoy every moment.

Wish me Luck!......If you believe in that kind of thing.

Food, The Social Medium

Food is food at the end of the day.

It is a means to keep our bodies in a condition in which to function.

But since the foodie revolution in the late 90's it has become much more here in the UK.

If you search on the internet you will find hundreds and thousands of people who are celebrating food in all manner of styles, types, locations and levels of sophistication. The rise of blogging from these people is staggering, as well as their presence on social sites such as Twitter.

It has had an impact in the UK catering trade, and in a good way on the whole. Chefs are now in need of finding new angles and styles, pushing boundaries and developing niches to suit and excite these outspoken diners.

There is also less room for error and definitely no room for bullsh** which gives way to a more clear and honest approach to what we do in a professional capacity. And I for one like this.

Foodies on the whole are everyday people from all walks of life who share a common interest in good food. Through the power of the internet they shout and rave about the great places they have dined, the amazing recipes they took a crack at, and the best markets, food festivals and local producers they have come across.

They are a multitude of critics, more powerful than the likes of the legendary Jay Rayner et al, primarily because these people are the every-man. Your neighbor, work colleague, friend.

In my current line of work within the trade, I constantly strive to bring fresh ideas to the business that suits the demands of our guests. The menus have changed frequently enough to reform into the type of foods that the paying clients want and highly enjoy. There is no self-centered ego contained within with cursed words claiming  Chef knows best. But there is passion in every dish created, cooked and served. Through listening  to the guests comments and conversations the food has become very traditional in style, resulting in quality Pub Fayre, but still done in a way that holds our audience in amazement and therefore ensures word of mouth and re-visits.

The most recent venture I tasked myself with was more of a challenge than previously expected, but is now coming into fruition.

Tapas is a well received style of food these days, associated with sunny days and warm evenings, bottles of wine shared between friends and the ultimate in social eating. I love the idea of a Tapa, and have been asked more times than I care to recall if I would consider doing one here. My response has always had to be in the negative as it does not reflect with the over-all style to the Public House. However, I am always up for a challenge so looked into alternative ideas. What eventually came to be took the best part of two months to construct, source, create and implement.

Due to the rise of amazing local specialty products I went on the hunt to find great food that would suit what I had in mind.

Through networking via social sites I began to find Artisan companies from around the West Country that oozed passion and the sense of small scale which was exactly what I was looking for. I found Handmade Scotch Eggs that were packed solid, full of flavour and most importantly, moist. Sausage Rolls hand made by a Butchers Wife that tasted out of this world. Melt in the mouth Hand raised Pork Pies (without gelatin). A cracking Artisan Meat company that makes (among other things) Beautiful Venison Salami, Air Dried Mutton and Cured Veal. An Old Farmers Wife who pickles Onions the way our Grandparents used to. A Fab tiny bakery with amazing old fashioned bread. And some of the most mind blowing cheeses you can imagine.

They all inspired me to go back to the roots of food, to remember simple snacks that I used to enjoy as a child. I ended up creating all sorts of recipes including Chicken wings, marinated in Orchard Apple Juice, Ground Almonds and Cinnamon, and Green Peppercorn Smoked Mussels finished in Burrow Hill Cider Brine.

We now have the functionality and social aspect of a Tapas coupled with the old fashioned British Bar snack in our newly released West Country Artisan Deli Board. Simple foods traditional in aspect yet the peak of quality and flavour. The time I become very proud is when a wide selection goes out to one table, knowing that the lucky guests are understanding the concept, enjoying the pairing with selected local Ales and Ciders, and telling all who follow their tweets, shouts, and status updates.

God bless you Foodies, without you, British Cuisine would be extinct.

Mackerel-icious Sandwich filling

Sustainability.

Still carrying on about it.

 It may have gone quieter, but Fish discards and sustainable sources are still a very hot topic and justifiably so. Fish species are in as much danger as the Giant Panda, Tiger or the Black Rhino. In fact, two out of the top ten Endangered species are the Beluga Sturgeon and the Mako Shark.

 As I write this, There has already been a debate in the House of Commons with regards to Fish discards, Fish Fight and the CFP (Common Fisheries Policy) which is great news, but retiring early feeling all is done would be a mistake.

As a nation of food lovers, and especially all us within the catering industry we need to continue the support by means of opting for alternative fish, experimenting with flavours and creating new exciting recipes.

The beautiful Mackerel (AKA the Sea Pigeon) is in abundance round our Coastal shores and is such a versatile choice of Sea meat you cannot go wrong.

It can be grilled, baked, roasted, pan fried, deep fried, Barbecued, smoked and even Curried. It has a rich aroma that is not unpleasant at all and its flavour is one of depth and freshness.

We have a local Gent who goes beach fishing regularly and will turn up of an early morning with his trophies which we then serve up to eager diners in a multitude of ways.

We offer Mackerel Salads, Grilled Mackerel with Crushed New Potatoes a zingy Tomato sauce and fresh Pesto, Mackerel in a Grain Mustard & Cider Batter served in a Rustic Roll and our new  Sandwich/Jacket filling; Smoked Mackerel with Spring Onion & Horseradish Mayonnaise.

The latter has become a big seller which replaced the staple Pub filling of Tuna & Sweetcorn. We opted to remove the fishy filling because of the largely unknown sourcing and fishing methods that were utilised to produce the tinned Tuna. All we knew was the fact it was processed and canned in Asia. Customers showed mixed emotions when the filling was removed, but was soon forgotten and we now sell more of the Mackerel than we ever did with the Tuna.

Smoked Mackerel with Spring Onions & Horseradish Mayonnaise

Ingredients for 4-5 Jacket Potatoes/Demi Baguettes

6 Smoked Mackerel fillets.

3 Spring Onions

Juice of ½ Lemon

Pinch Cracked Black Pepper

1 ½ Dessertspoons Quality Horseradish Sauce

6 Dessertspoons Quality Mayonnaise

Good Handful Chopped Fresh Coriander

75g Fresh or Defrosted Frozen Peas

Method:

• Remove the skin from the Mackerel fillets, and any bones that can be found. Tear flesh by hand into small pieces and place into a mixing bowl.
• Peel the Spring Onions, top and tail. Slice finely into rings and add to the Mackerel.
• Add the Lemon juice, Black Pepper, Horseradish & Mayonnaise. Stir the Ingredients together until well mixed. (The mix needs to be bound and coated without being too wet. If in doubt add four dessertspoons of Mayonnaise, mix and add more if required.
• Add the freshly chopped Coriander and Peas and fold through the mix.
• If this is being made in advance and being stored in a Fridge, there will be a layer of Oil formed when utilised. This is from both the Fish and the Mayonnaise. Therefore for better results mix the Horseradish and Mayonnaise in its own bowl and add just before use, Mixing the fish oil back into the other ingredients first.

-Containing Protein Vitamins B, A & D, Calcium Iodine, Fluorine, Magnesium, Zinc and high amounts of the Clinically Ratified Omega 3 Oils, Mackerel is a fabulous food to aide and maintain a healthy heart, body and mind. Get some, try some and Enjoy. 

Masterchef UK: mainstream television

So it has begun..........

Masterchef UK started tonight at the new time and new channel, proving not just how popular the program is, but also how much people enjoy watching the blood sweat and tears behind creating passionate food.

Boasting a swanky new set, both Gregg Wallace and John Torode launched themselves straight into the frying pan of uncertainty, as the doors opened for eager foodies to cook to impress and secure themselves a place in the top twenty.

The dishes served up were an eclectic mix ranging from inspired to tired.

There seemed to be some that had practiced and had become reasonably well versed in their showpiece which received fair praise, and deservedly so. Then there were those that made me wonder if firstly they had even attempted the dish before, and secondly, if the individuals had ever watched Masterchef before to gain understanding as to the level of cooking expected.

We saw the usual suspects lined up: People looking for career changes, people with mid life crisis's, those who have been told by Friends and lovers they are amazing at cooking. The obligatory I want to quit my job and open my own Gastro Pub (grrrrr), The over thinkers, under-achievers and the raw edged souls who yearn for guidance to become the next best thing in the Industry.

After 45 minutes of preparation time, the hopefuls load up their trolleys one at a time and dispatch themselves into the room beyond with a single kitchen area to finish their offerings in front of the two formidable hosts.

This gave Gregg and John ten minutes to grill, quiz and de-construct the individual, before they pass their judgement on the presentation, textures and flavors set before them. 

Dreams were fulfilled for some, for others they were dashed, whilst a small handful were granted the opportunity to retry by returning the following day. At the end we were left with 11 hopefuls through to the first stage of this prestigious televised Food journey.

For me, Masterchef has not really started yet, and won't until the chosen ones start cooking in that big Kitchen, competing against each other to be recognized for their raw abilities, secret talent. These first two days almost feel like they are purely a demographic pleaser, an amuse bouche, keeping en vogue with currently big audience grabbers and smacking of Xfactor/Britain's Got Talent. Gregg and John look relaxed and comfortable in their surroundings, and unnaturally quiet with regards to their usually animated verbal-isms, almost like they too cannot wait to get stuck in to the Starter courses that are the first rounds.

The show does already promise to be as emotionally exciting as always, with each of us finding our wannabe to champion (although my favorite tonight was axed during the life-line cook off, so need to rethink). And most of this is down to the personalities of the keepers of the Aprons. 

These guys are all about food. 

They have passion, knowledge, a nurturing quality and above all else, an infectious attitude to the fact that the proof is in the eating. Hell! I get excited watching them get mesmerized by some of the food they eat, the smiles and noises of ecstasy when someone hits the notes spot on and plays the tune they know so well.

I would love to meet those guys and share a whole day of eating and talking Food. Or even a whole weekend........Or a whole week. 

......Or once every 3rd weekend for a year.

One of my top  qualities as a Chef is that I am always talking about ingredients, dishes and all things food orientated with friends, family, colleagues and often clients who ask questions like I am a walking Food bible. 

One of my bad qualities as a Chef is that I am always talking about ingredients, dishes and all things food orientated with friends, family, colleagues and often clients who ask questions like I am a walking Food bible.

And that is what this show represents. Passion for what we do and for what we eat. Britain has a relationship with food that is ever growing stronger, putting it well and truly on the map as one of the top, if not the best, Countries for all things Culinary. Thanks to the Chefs, the Producers, Foodies, and the likes of Masterchef UK for making food more than just a means to live.

Don't just Eat to Live. Live to Eat! 

JP’s Nana's green Tomato Chutney

This is an aged recipe that my Nana used to make amongst other chutneys and jams.

I have modified it slightly to help bring out the best of the flavours, but by and large this is still the same Chutney that I used to enjoy with a doorstop of fresh Bloomer & some proper Farmhouse Butter.

Ingredients

1.5kg green tomatoes

4 large apples

2 small cucumbers

3 large onions

200g sultanas

275g Demerara sugar

2 tblspn mustard

1 ½ tspn ground ginger

1 tspn cayenne pepper

1 ½ tblspn salt

1.1 pints vinegar

Method 

• Remove tomato eyes, slice onions, apples (peeled), cucumbers and place in pan with all the ingredients.
• Bring to boil and simmer for 1 ½ - 2 hours, stirring frequently.
• Put into jars and seal.
• This is good to use after 3 days.

Blood, Sweat & Tears: A Passionate trade.

Did You Know?......

It is calculated that on average, 148million meals are consumed within the UK, per year with a steady 0.5-1% increase year on year, resulting in an excess of a £40 billion market.

It is also believed that as an average, one in nine meals per week are taken outside of the home, and the mean spend per meal is £12.75.

Big numbers, which will be knocked out of the proverbial park next year when the Olympics begin.

Obviously, some of those diners are made up of Critics, Mystery Diners, and people from within the trade resulting in the situation where the humble trade is under professional scrutiny quite often without the staff ever realising.

Critics are loved and hated for numerous reasons. Some are well respected and often invited to dine at an establishment in the hope that their food and service satisfies enough to gain praise and bankable words from which to gain business. Some are despised because of their acid tongues and far too high expectancy, where nothing ever seems good enough and their damning verbalisms jeopardise the effort that has been put into the whole restaurant et al.

Mystery Diners are usually employed to seek out specific answers and grading for the Companies’ own   insight into branch quality of service and delivery of product. These are usually welcomed as a way to improve in areas that are lacking, although sometimes poor results are met with Management excuses and appeals.

Professionals within the trade dine out for two main reasons:

1) Just part of a normal way of life, just the same as anyone else would.

2) To see what the competition are doing, and rate alongside their own work.

It is very difficult dining out if you are within the trade.

For those outside the business of Catering, it is a way of eating food prepared by someone of (usually) trained ability therefore as long as the food is good and the service is personable the experience is enjoyed.

For those of us within, there is the problem of not being able to fully switch off from reflective practice succinct to your job role. We don’t mean to. We would be far happier to be able to be ‘normal’ and relax, enjoy and walk away content........

But we can’t..........

From the welcome when we walk in the door, the time it takes to be served at the bar, the seating at the table. The table layout, the staff member selling the specials and highlighting dishes on the menu, the way the menu is laid out and worded. The length of time it takes to place the order. The offer of wines to compliment the meal, jug of iced water on the table.

The time it takes from ordering the food to receiving the first course. Having the correct cutlery already placed. The appearance of the dish and if the plate is hot or cold. The check back (if it actually happens), is the clear down done in a timely fashion? Time to next course? Offer of further drinks. Offer of the dessert menu/Coffees/Teas/Brandies? The issuing of the Bill and subsequent handling of the payment and finally, the actual feeling that you were a valued guest and they truly look forward to receiving you again.

All of the above is mentally ticked off in most customers heads as the dining occurs, yet tradesmen examine every particle under a culinary and servitory microscope, highlighting each flaw with a sigh, a tut and a smug smile knowing you do better yourself. Each slight negative is smothered in a smudge of blackness adding unfair minus points large than they actually are.

I used to be like that, back in my cocky youth for a small amount of time. It may have been more for the reason of trying to impress the girlfriend at the time, or to inflate my own ego or even both at the same time. It is an unhealthy way to dine out resulting in an expensive way of not cooking for yourself. I soon changed my ethics with regards to eating out, and now if anything, I have more leniency towards mishaps during my time at another’s table.

.....But not too much.

I am, after all a fellow diner who does want what should be more than the bare minimum for my hard earned money. I am also a champion for the Catering & Hospitality business being the best it can be and the best it should be.

I abhor those that believe it is easy to run a Pub/Hotel/Restaurant or any other Catering business without prior knowledge and experience only to mar us with a very poorly run unit. It is an insult to the Industry and those who work within it.

This often results in the lack of professional finesse and the theory that  service can be done using cheap labour without training or need for career motivation. Most all places I have had poor to awful experiences have been in Pubs and the like that was run by wannabe big wigs. (This is not true to every person that comes into it from the outside, some are very able, understanding the level of skill and service needed and creating the perfect team to execute the tasks).

On these occasions when the overall experience is so poor I will complain, bitterly. I exchange words with them befitting of an Edwardian man defending the honour and virtue of his family. If I feel the trade and myself do not receive adequate satisfaction I will place comments (where able) ensuring other potential diners are aware.

When national statistics are created, the whole is cross sectioned and a means is found to give an approximate of where things officially lie. Taken as part of this statistic are the afore mentioned week links, resulting in down marking overall scores, percentages and overviews. 

To those that do this to us listen up.......

Either get in line, respect the hard work, effort and commitment of the professionals within, or get the Hell out of My trade!

Copyright? copywrong!

I read a very good article on a fellow Bloggers' (Northern Snippet, go check her out at: http://thepublandlady.blogspot.com) spot today and decided to leave a Comment.
Which I did........

15 Minutes later I was still writing, so decided to place the Comment as a Blog on mine instead...It was way too long to be a comment!
The Post written, entitled 'Hands Off Chef' discusses the Arrogance of some Chefs that feel their product is so unique and so amazing that they Copyright these dishes for fear of others gaining success and notoriety from it.

This did grate my nerves and I whole heartedly agree with Northern Snippet.
Below is my origional Comment.
Read Northerns' .........

http://thepublandlady.blogspot.com/2011/01/hands-off-chef.html

.....and then mine

Hello Northern Snippet!
Great Post, as always!

Here is my Comment in response to your fantastic article.

Chef's on the whole, get their ideas from cook books that are sold to the British public. They have a play, change a few bits round, then 'Tah-Dah!', they have created their own secret recipe! But, this has a few irk-isms for me........

1) These books are aimed at the Public to create in their homes using ingredients widely available. These books are not aimed at Chefs. (although there is nothing wrong with gaining inspiration from their peers, taking it and changing the salt used or swapping sweetcorn for peas is not exercising ones' talent or professional capabilities)
2) To then cover up the ingredients and copyright the Recipe makes no sense, after all, if someone dearly wants to be able to create that amazing dish that is one of the biggest forms of flattery you can get!
3) Look at the Menus....full of Allergy advice-contains Gluten, contains Soya, Contains Sultanas, contains Nuts and/or derivatives there of, contains sesame, contains food of a non ethical source, contains foods that may be Organic, contains...Ingredients!
These days we have to label the items contained therein for the fear of getting sued for not mentioning a product that may cause adverse effects on your consumers (I have recently taken to using Fennel & Dill Pollens in my cooking, a new Gastro-Ingredient that is versatile and amazing, but for fear of evoking Hay fever, I have added a (P) to the Menu!)
4) If all Cooks, Chefs and the like forbade others from using recipes then there would be no Classics that we grew up with which has stood the test of time, e.g. Shepherd's Pie, Steak & Kidney Pudding, Yorkshire Pudding, English Trifle etc, etc. There would also be a virtually indistinguishable line between what is considered copyright infringement and what is not, and this would have a severe domino affect on the whole Community.
5) We are not Gods of the food world...we are but humble masters of the art and therefore need to respect the medium in which we work and understand we do not own any of it.
6) If you really want to get your Ego rubbed and be recognised, do the same as me, write a bloody cook book, and Blog your cocky heart out!

Band Wagons.

The trouble with them is every bugger gets on, leaving little room for individual personality. Like fashion..........

And Trends.

BIG Hospitality ran a feature recently where highly admired Chefs gave their predictions as to what will be gastronomically En Vogue in 2011, which will no doubt have others searching amidst their area for supplies and recipes to keep them 'hip' and happening.

Certain Things I get, and fully follow. Like utilising locally produced, reared and grown produce. Obviously the recent sustainability surge with regards to fish (and other produce). But these aren't trends, they are Revolutions spurred on through the gaining of knowledge and the attainment of Ethics.

When the call for buying local erupted forth from legendary proclaimed chefs shouting from the rooftops of their Restaurants and Hotels I stuck my thumb out and hitched that lift. However, after time I realised that although Local is a very important part of our current Ethos, the one thing we were seriously overlooking was the quality aspect.

As a Chef, I take pride in utilising the best ingredients I can get and that means not all that comes from within a given radius of supply will necessarily meet my needs. For example, The weather and soil further up the Isle, I.E. Norfolk, may aid the production of a better quality Carrot as opposed to the Somerset Levels. The grazing land may be better in Yorkshire nurturing better Milk, as opposed to the wilds of Cornwall.

And it's not just product for product. It is also product within product. Consider the Potato. With approximately 4000 varieties grown throughout the world and around 80 farmed in the United Kingdom, there is plenty to choose from. Chefs have their favourites depending on what task the humble spud is for and a lot of the attraction will be due to the quality of local crop.  

I do still buy locally, don't misunderstand. I get these amazing Jerusalem Artichokes, and Shallots from just down the road albeit from a very annoying (overly passionate) grower. I get my Fish from two 'as local as land-locked Somerset can be' suppliers. and all my meat is raised within the Borders of Somerset, Dorset, Devon & Wiltshire. I get very ratty & pissed off if ever I have found out a supplier has bought any produce that has travelled more air miles than I have because it was a good deal and have not told me before purchase. I would rather pay more, charge more and enable myself to sleep safe in the knowledge that Britain is growing and rearing fine foods for me and my Diners.

The main hub of this post is to heavily endorse and promote a fantastic Local (yet not....sort of) product that I am very fortunate to be allowed to utilise.

At the bottom of the Village, there is a hidden farm reached via a 'Southfork' style track with white fences adorning the sides and wide open level fields of grass beyond. Occasionally you catch a glimpse of Bovine herds in the distance roaming free, grazing and lazing under mighty Oak trees. Eventually you  arrive into the large and clean complex typical of any aged Farm in the UK. There are signs pointing the directions that one may need to take including the Butchers shop. 

The Farm is called Lower Oakley Farm and as afore mentioned, looks similar to other Beef Farms yet there is one slight difference..............

They are not Cows.

The placid Beasts that roam this idyllic Somerset countryside are Water Buffalo.

Similar in appearance to your average breed of Cows there is only three features that make them notably different in species. They are all a rich chocolate brown in colour, their 'Blade' (the ridge after the neck) is highly defined, and they have magnificently carved and curved Horns.

These mighty animals are just as inquisitive as Cows tend to be and often wander over to the fences for a nuzzle and a sniff which is when you notice their deep, searching eyes, often shaded beneath toupees of hair.

The farm started out with a Herd of 22 which were imported from Romania, and to date they have increased to a steady 200 strong. Their diet consists of grass for most of the year and then during the freezing Winter months they are fed natural Winter Forage which the Farmer grows on his own land. At no point do the Buffalo eat any form of added concentrates, ensuring that they maintain a traceable Organic lineage.

When the animal has been killed, it is then matured for 21 days on site before the Barry expertly Butchers the meat into various cuts to sell at Farmers markets and within their own shop. As this is a small concern, the produce is only for public retail, and there are no plans to breed enough for Catering outlets. However! I am lucky enough to have gained the good grace and blessing of both Tony the Farmer and Barry the Butcher to feature their wonderful meat within my place of work. 

On my Classic Pub Menu I have created a mouthwatering and flavoursome Buffalo Burger, using high quality Mince, and seasoned with blended Onions, Cracked Pepper & Sea Salt. We also sell their topside, Roasted on Sundays as opposed to the usual Beef. And I have just created a new Pie of Slow cooked Diced Buffalo, Somerset Cider, & Caramelised Shallots with a delicate Blue Cheese Pastry.

All three dishes come highly praised and we would probably sell even more (especially the pie) but, just as the Farmer insists on keeping a small, sustainable herd, I too keep an eye on the amount that I require to enable us to maintain an equilibrium in supply and demand. 

That should not stop you from trying this fabulous meat though and urge you to find some and try it. It has approximately 40% less Cholesterol & 70% less Fat than normal Beef, rich in Iron and other vital Minerals, has a slightly more open Texture, a terrific fresh flavour that melts over your palate, and is a very tender and pure meat.

Coming next....Recipe for Buffalo! 

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This little Piggy........

"Everything in a Pig is good. What ingratitude has permitted his name to become a term of opprobrium?""
Grimod De La Reyniere

I love meats. They are a beautiful medium to use in the kitchen that often gets showcased as the best meal on the menu, be it in a pie, as a chop or cutlet, roasting joint, steak, burger, casserole or sandwich filler. People are willing to pay phenomenal prices for certain cuts of meat from specific animals because they know how good it will taste.

When I purchase my meat, I insist on knowing where the animal has come from, which means I often visit the Producer along with my trusted and valued Butcher to ensure that I feel comfortable with the way they are reared. This includes the way they are kept, their feed, their space to roam, their shelter and how much the farmer actually cares for them. There is one small holder I know that plays music to his Sheep & Lamb daily, and another that believes in massage for his herd, amazing!

One of my suppliers is a fab Rare Breeds Piggery  in Dorset where the pigs have acres of space to roam, are fed on nothing but good food, are probably the friendliest ones I have ever met. Their shape is perfect, not over fed and fattened, but not too lean. I often select a Pig from time to time and when ready, it is killed and butchered to the specifications I need at the time, with nothing left to waste (I often train my staff on old school things like Brawn, faggots etc.) My favourite two finish products I enjoy creating are Pork Belly, and Hams.

Hams can be plain, which lets the Meat do all the talking with it's unadulterated freshness and unique taste, but  I enjoy the steeping and cooking with flavours to end up with a truly flavoursome product. This is a curing recipe I have tweaked from an old Farmhouse cookbook which was originally from Oxfordshire area. It is best to cure Hams during late Autumn or Early spring where the air conditions are better for the process.

Beer & Juniper Cure for Air Dried Hams


Ingredients for 8kg Boneless Pork leg:


470g Soft Brown Sugar
250g Rough Sea salt
3 pints of Beer (This is an important factor of the process, as this determines a large portion of the outcome in flavour. Too malty and the product may become bitter, too Hoppy and the Ham may carry a lingering floral note. Taste the ales first, and then decide on the one for you).
235g Juniper Berries
87g Celery powder or salt

Note: The original recipe called for Saltpetre which is the product that created the Nitrates required to cure the meat as well as give it the lovely pink colour that is associated with Hams. These days, Saltpetre is only utilised in some Butchers as a means to keep their Sausages Pink and if they cure their own hams. I have changed the recipe to omit this form of salt by upping the natural Sea salts (which have a good volume of the required Nitrates), and added Celery powder or salt. Powdered Celery is a good natural alternative to Saltpetre. Otherwise, if you have a good specialist food supplier, you could use Pink salt instead.

Method:
Put all the ingredients into a pan and boil for 10 minutes.
Allow to get cold.
Place the Ham into a 5 litre tub and cover with the liquid. Cover and leave in a cold place (ideally in a chill room, or anywhere that the temperature is anywhere between +5 to +10 degrees C
Lift and turn the Ham in the tub, massaging the meat briefly every 3 days over a period of 12 days.
Remove from the Pickle, rinse off brine, double wrap in muslin and hang until dry in an airy, cool and dry place (5-9 months is best, but is ready after 6-8 weeks)